Climbing Mt. Roddmain (6112m)
Mt. Roddmain is a mountain that is at 6112 meters. It is located in the Minya Konka massif in Hengduan Mountain Range in Eastern Tibetan Plateau in western Sichuan province. The nearest town of this mountain is Kangding. From Chengdu to Kangding it is 300km drive that takes half day. From Kangding trail head to Roddmain BC it is 17km walking from 3400m to 4600m. Expedition takes usually 10-14 Days. Climbing Season from August to November.
Expedition at a Glance
Meeting Point: Chengdu or Laoyulin Village
Duration: 12 Days (including 1 Flexible Day)
Departures & Price:
28 August – 08 September 29800 yuan PP
27 September – 08 October 31800 yuan PP
Day by Day
Day 01 Arrive at Laoyulin Village (Altitude 3100m)
Day 02 Acclimating Day (3100m)
Day 03 Laoyulin – Gyazela Camp (3800m)
Day 04 Gyazela Camp – Roddmain BC (4600m)
Day 05 Acclimating at BC (4600m)
Day 06 BC – C1 (5200m)
Day 07 Acclimating at C1 (5200m)
Day 08 C1 – C2 (5700m)
Day 09 C2 – Summit (6112m) – C2 or C1
Day 10 Back to BC (4600m)
Day 11 BC – Laoyulin (3100m)
Day 12 Flexible Day
What to Expect
A Technical Climb
Mt. Roddmain is a technical mountain to climb comparing to other 6000er mountains available in China. It is one of the challenging mountains that are available. An expedition to Roddmain requires skilled using of gears, physical level, technical skills. Climbing Roddmain gives you good training on experiences of technical climbs, good confidence, and a stronger sense of achievement even than many higher mountains due to its difficulty level. Technical Mountain means not only basic skills & high altitude experiences but also skills of walking on snow ridge, more sophisticated roping skills, protection, descending, and even ice-climbing skills. There is more gain of technical skills climbing Roddmain.
A Real Expedition
There are only a few who had summited Mt. Roddmain due to its difficulty. It’s a much more challenging mountain compared to other 6000er or even 7000er. Many use MA as a necessary training peak before summit to 8000er while forgetting some 6000er mountains are also good options (sometimes even better). The requirements on your physical performance, the training on techniques, real expedition-like experience on mixed climb, etc. From C1 to C2 there is a section of highly exposed traverse beside ridgeline and approaching the summit of Mt. Roddmain it is 60-70 degree steep climb……
A Good-Looking Mountain
Mt. Roddmain is above all, a good-looking mountain too. Glacier with lakes, rocky face and snowy ridgeline……
A Just-Right Challenge
Comparing to other established 6000er such as Mt. Yuzhu and Mt. Chola, Mt. Roddmain is more technical and hence more difficult and more challenging. Comparing to other 6000er in the Minya Konka Massif, Mt. Roddmain West Ridge is relatively an easy route and accessible to many people who have had experiences as a beginner in climbing.
Laoyulin (3100m) – Roddmain BC (4600m)
This part is done in 2 days with one night sleep at Gyazela at 3900m. Elevation of where you start to walk is at 3500m (there is a short ride from Laoyulin to road end by 3500m). First day on foot approach is around 8km for around 4-5 hours with easy pace while acclimating to the altitude. Second day on approaching to BC is around 9km from 3900m to 4600m. In these two days you will see other big mountains including Lamoshe peaks, Tchiburongi, Grosvenor, Jiazi……
BC (4600m) – C1(5200m)
This part is done in 1 Day ascending 600m in 5.5km for normally 5-8 hours. From BC the climb part starts. From BC first on easy grass part ascending and then on moraine and rocks with some steep sections protection setup before the last 100m with mixed climb before C1.
C1 (5200m) – C2 (5700m)
This part is done in 1 day ascending 500m in 1.2km for normally 5-8 hours. Between C1 and C2 it is rocky ridge of screes for the first half and for the second half it is mainly snow & ice and in which a 200-m ascending on 50-60 degree slope. Require of protection full day, exposed climb on ridgeline full day.
C2 (5700m)- Summit of Roddmain (6112m)
This part is done within a day ascending 400+m in 1.2km for normally 6-9 hours. Snow and ice climb, more challenging than the former day with steepness 60-70 degrees, more exposed. Summit is flat and gradual.
28 August – 08 September 29800 yuan PP
27 September – 08 October 31800 yuan PP
Upfront Payment 8000yuan, Rest of Payment due 15 Days prior.
Mountain Guide/Guides for whole Trip (Chinese -speaking);
Lodging and Tents at campsites;
Campsite food (B&D): meals above BC are basic mountain food;
Shared climbing gears;
The carrying of 15kg for each before BC;
Logistics and Medical Support;
Transfer from/back to Chengdu can be arranged for free.
Personal gears including personal technical gears (can be rented);
Horse-riding, personal porter service;
Extra fee on Foreigners on Climbing Permits;
Any personal Expenses;
As costs happen after confirmation, the following refunding policies are applicable when a cancelation happens:
Cancelation 30 days prior to departure date, full refund;
Cancelation 16-30 days prior to departure date, 50% refund;
Cancelation within 15 days prior to departure date, no refund.
Most comfortable possible BC;
Detailed expedition briefing;
Light-packing while the heavy gears are taken care by the packhorses;
Separate Kitchen by BC, clean drinking water;
Electricity at BC available;
Activity tents and toilet tents;
Variety of food choices provided by experienced outdoor chef;
Well-experienced Mountain Guides:
Years of training and climbing;
Guide in leadclimb did the west ridge route first and has the knowledge about the climb;
Guide knows the risks and the counter-measures;
All guides have AHA certificate;
Safety is Everything:
a.Most suficient possible acclimating as shown in the program;
b.High pressure Oxygen Cabin;
c.Well-equipped communication gear including satellite phone and radios;
d.Medical support including oxygon;
e.First response system
Before Signing Up
- Exprience of former treks, climbs at high altitude including at least one trip to above 5000m that requires beginner technical climbs (Mt. Banji, Mt. Duri, Mt. Nama, Mt. Yuzhu or Mt. Chola), experience of climbing on snow & ice, rope-involved climbs.
- More climbing techniques or ice-climbing experiences will help a successful summit to Mt. Roddmain but these are not mandatory.
- A form will be sent to you for personal experience checking and assessment according to each individual based on your experience etc.
- Know climbing gears including technical gears, know different terrain requires different techniques, know how to use ropes, ascending and descending, know how to take care of yourself at high altitude.
- If you are not sure about if you are up to this trip, please send your inquiry.
- A healthy physical condition is required before sign up. You are not opt to sign up such trip if you have any major ailments, cardiovascular disease; heart cerebrovascular disease; cardio-cerebrovascular disease, diabetes, cardiac disease, etc, any former surgeries shall be made known to us. Consult your doctor before sign up for such trip.
- Advices given by your guide is crucial. There are unpredictables in a climbing trip, signing up on such trip may expect minor or even major changes of plan. Safety is the first priority under any circumstances. All mountain guides are working under safety guidelines in a climbing trip. Any injuries or death caused by factors out of our control or by your own activity against our suggestion, will be on your own responsibility.
- Please care nature and take your trash with you all the time, don’t harm plants and animals;
- Please give care to the gears provided.
Suggested Personal Gears
Shared gears will be provided including whole set for BC, ropes, etc
Personal gears need to be prepared by yourself:
Personal technical gears: Climbing boots, crampons, ice axe(ice tool), helmet, harness, carabiners and locking carabiners, belay devices, sling (renting available, around 500/P)
Personal gears: Duffel bag, 20L-30L summit pack, approaching boots, heavy down jacket (200g and above), fleece jacket and pants, wind-breaker jacket and pants, quick-dry underwears, hats and warm-keeping hats, socks and warm socks, gloves and warm/water-resilient gloves, headtorch, sunglasses, thermal/water bottle, lip oil, sun cream, gaiters.
If you are not sure about your list of packing, please send your inquiry.
Climbing Techniques Breakdown
From C1 and above, most of the climb is on ridgeline: you will have good views but it can also be windy and brings psychological pressure. It is a very exposed climb.
Long Climb on Snow/Ice
Above the snow the climb is on 30-40 degree or steeper of ascending. It requires long hours of ascending on the ridge that is not super steep but can hardly find any place to take a decent break. Techniques of walking on such terrain and try rely less on the rope but rather techniques of your walking. A high endurance is required.
Traversing on Snow
Important climbing techniques that is required especially before the summit to Roddmain. Such technique will require climber to also use ice tools and crampons.
Adequate Acclimating: 12 days total, 11 days minimum, acclimating days before reach BC at 4600m, more acclimating after BC to gradually build up the orientation of your body to the altitude. A higher chance of summiting.
Choose the Right Season: From end of August to the beginning of October is the best season to climb Mt. Roddmain.
Knowledge of Route: The team started to explore Roddmain from as early as 2014 and has sufficient knowledge of the place and its weather. The team has had scouting trips and established the western ridge for the first time ever and assessed the route and locations of fixed rope, anchors and choices of camps.
From C1 to C2 the ridge of screes seems too much and feels much exposed, what happens when someone needs to evacuate/go down?
From C1 to C2 there is fixed rope for protection, you will also be guided through and your we will also ask for your physical condition all the time. You will be escorted down should you suffer AMS or other ailments while the rest of the team continues. One of the strength of our team is we will have a sufficient-staffed team to make sure every climber’s concern is taken care.
For first-timers, traversing seems to be scary, how to cope?
It’s true for first-timers especially when you are exposed. Confidence is built up through experience and you can first rely on the gears and build up your confidence by practicing step by step.
Comparing to Mt. Chola and Mt. Yuzhu, which one is more difficult?
Mt. Roddmain is more challenging and more difficult than Mt. Chola (Chola Classic Route). Mt. Roddmain has more complicated scree sections, long exposed ice/snow climb and harder and longer steep parts. 1500-m protection distance while Mt. Chola only has 400-m protection distance. Mt. Yuzhu is the easiest of all.
Any rock climbing gears for climbing Mt. Roddmain?
Not necessary as the anchors and ropes will be set up by your guides.
What’s the weather factor to the summiting? What if the weather is not suited for summiting?
Weather is indeed a very important factor for summiting. Except for extreme weather conditions, a summit will be planned. We have fixed ropes and experienced guides who have been up here and one more buffering day to wait for the bad weather to pass.
What’s the ratio of Mountain Guide VS Climber?
It will be between 1:1 and 1:3 throughout the trip. It won't be fixed but rather according to the actual situation.