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September 18th History Museum

September 18th 1931 is a day that will never be forgotten by the Chinese people, as it was the beginning of the darkest period in China’s modern history....
September 18th 1931 is a day that will never be forgotten by the Chinese people, as it was the beginning of the darkest period in China’s modern history. On this day the Japanese army, which had been occupying part of Manchuria (northeastern China) since the Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895), allegedly bombed a bridge at a Japanese owned and operated railroad crossing. The Japanese then blamed the attack on Chinese rebels. This action, which is now referred to as “the September 18th Incident (九一八事变)” or “the Manchurian Incident” or “the Mukden Incident” (Mukden is the Manchu name for Shenyang), was used as a pretext for the Japanese army to begin its invasion of China. 
  
After the railroad crossing was destroyed, the Japanese launched a full-scale, surprise attack on Shenyang, easily conquering the city. Within a week, the Japanese conquered most of Manchuria, pillaging its cities, and taking the food, and resources for use in Japan. For the next 14 years the Chinese people lived in constant fear and suffered unfathomable atrocities at the hands of the Japanese army. 
    
Shenyang’s 9-18 Museum sits on the exact site of the “9-18 Incident.”  The museum is a large, very impressive building, designed to look like an open book. Some exhibits feature hundreds of photographs and documents from the years before the invasion leading all the way up to the war-crimes tribunals of the 1950s. Other exhibits include Chinese and Japanese firearms and artillery, human skeletons found in Shenyang, wax figurines, Japanese torture devices, and concrete sections of the original railroad bridge. 
  
The museum is very well presented, and the dark, somber atmosphere is very suitable to the content of the exhibits. There are some signs in English, but unfortunately most of the information is in Chinese. However, even if you can’t understand the Chinese, the pictures and displays are impressive and moving nonetheless. 
  
Those with an interest in modern history or those studying Chinese should definitely not skip the 9-18 Museum. It’s probably the world’s best collection of memorabilia from this important period of history, which is often overlooked in Western history books. The museum also provides excellent insight into the formation of the current ideas and attitudes of Chinese people, as well as the political relationships between the two East Asian countries. Furthermore, as of 2007, entrance to the museum is free.       
  
For anyone staying in Shenyang, it is certainly worth the time to come here. If you can’t read Chinese, you may want to consider bringing a Chinese friend. 
  
Note:  Entry to the museum is free, but it closes at 4:00pm and is closed on Mondays. Plan your time so you can have at least two hours to wander around the museum. 
   
Location: The Museum is to the northeast of the North Train Station, on Wang Hua Nan Jie (望花南街). From Middle Street (中街), it’s about 5km directly north on Xi Shun Cheng Jie (西顺城街).  Ask a taxi driver for “jiǔ yī bā bówù guǎn”or take the following buses:
 
212 from Wu Ai Market
253 from Heping Square
328 from Ma Lu Wan
 
 
Pillar from the Bridge Bombed in the "9-18 Incident"     
 
 
 
 
 
Photos by Jerry Wang, 2007
 
 
 Another disaster to China, Nanjing Massacre, in 1937-1938.  The Memorial Hall of the Victims of the Nanjing Massacre
 

Horticulture Exposition/Botanical Gardens

  
The widely publicized (around Shenyang) “2006 International Horticultural Exposition” (世界园艺博览会 shì jiè yu...
  
The widely publicized (around Shenyang) “2006 International Horticultural Exposition” (世界园艺博览会 shì jiè yuán yì bó lǎn huì) was one of the most significant events ever to be held in Shenyang. Though the official “Expo” was during the summer of 2006, the park itself and most of the attractions are still open, and this year the park will play host to another event: the “2007 UNESCO World Heritage Exposition” (June 9-October, 2007).  
    
The park, commonly known in English as the Expo, and in Chinese as shìbóyuán (世博园), includes the old Shenyang Botanical Gardens (植物园) as well many new exhibits including a large indoor rose garden, a rare flower market, the “Lily Tower”--a large glass tower that provides a great view of the surrounding area, the “Phoenix Tail”--a large metal structure that forms the entrance to the grounds, many “International Gardens” which are supposed to represent horticulture from around the world, a Mongolian horse show, food vendors, beer gardens, some live entertainment including traditional performances from some of China’s ethnic minorities, a motorcycle show, and more. 
 
The park is huge, and it’s probably impossible to see everything in one day. However, walking through the “International Gardens” can be a bit monotonous as they all look a bit similar. Many people will enjoy the old Botanical Gardens more than the new attractions, as it is quieter and the flora is older and more natural. Find a map of the park--the old section is south of the train tracks. 
    
Aside from flowers and trees, the Botanical Garden features a carnival with rides and games, and a canal with dozens of different types of bridges challenging you to cross (be wary of friends who may be eager to push you in the water).
  
  
Location: One hour west of the city center by bus, a few km past Dongling Park, and just east of Qipan Shan Scenic Area. A taxi there will cost you at least 50 yuan, but most westbound trains from Shenyang’s stations stop there. Also you can take the 168 (formerly 330) bus from Ma Lu Wan or Da Shuai Fu for 5 yuan (1 hour). During the Expo, there are dozens of special charter buses leaving from all over the city, so if you ask around you may be able to find one close to you. If you can’t find one, simply go to Ma Lu Wan, or North Train Station. 
 
 
 
 
     
  
 
Be careful crossing these bridges!!
 

Offical Website (Only in Chinese)

Liaoning Radio and Television Tower

The Liaoning Radio and TV Tower, at 305 meters, is easily the tallest structure in Shenyang. It’s commonly known in English as “the TV tower,” and in Chinese as 彩电塔 (cǎi diàn tǎ). The sign outside proclaims that the tower is one of the “top 50 tourist lo...
The Liaoning Radio and TV Tower, at 305 meters, is easily the tallest structure in Shenyang. It’s commonly known in English as “the TV tower,” and in Chinese as 彩电塔 (cǎi diàn tǎ). The sign outside proclaims that the tower is one of the “top 50 tourist locations in Liaoning Province,” and one of the “top 15 in Shenyang.”
 
For 50 yuan visitors can take an ultra-fast elevator 200 meters up into the tower (70 yuan with dinner included). Inside the tower there is a rotating restaurant, a small bar with wine and beer, a few arcade games, and some pictures of “famous towers of the world.” The tower’s top attraction is likely the open-air viewing platform just upstairs from the restaurant and bar area. On a clear day Shenyang can be viewed in it’ entirety, and it can be very pleasant on a clear autumn evening.
 
Recommended: To make the most of your experience, go up the tower in the afternoon so you can see the city in daylight. Then enjoy a bottle of wine in the bar area, and head back up to the viewing platform for sunset. 
Note: You must have a reservation if you want to dine in the restaurant!

 

Location:  There are entrances on qīng nián dà jiē (青年大街) and xī bīn hé lù (西滨河路), just west of Qingnian Park (青年公园, qīng nián gōng yuán). 
Useful Bus Routes:
214 from Summer Palace, Government Square
238 from Wu Ai Market
 
 

Local bus routes: 207、214、223、244、246、603.

Beiling Park and Zhaoling Tomb

 
Beiling (literally “north tomb”) is one of Shenyang’s largest parks, and certainly it’s most famous. The park itsel...
 
Beiling (literally “north tomb”) is one of Shenyang’s largest parks, and certainly it’s most famous. The park itself is huge and quite nice, and you could easily spend half a day wandering around the ponds and trees. In the summer the park is filled with people flying kites, dancing, cycling, and practicing Tai ji (太极). In the winter you can ride horses, skate, and go sledding on the frozen ponds. 
      
The Zhaoling tomb is located in the center of the park. Entrance to the tomb area requires a separate ticket (30 yuan). Built in 1643 by famous Qing Dynasty Emperor Kangxi, the shrine is walled in by a large stone wall. Within the walls are several Qing Dynasty style buildings, and the tomb itself is a large earthen mound with a single elm tree growing from the top. 
   
The Qing Dynasty was ruled by the Manchus, whose home was in northeastern China. Shenyang (then called ‘Shenjing’) served briefly as the Manchu capital before they moved to Beijing and established their dynasty. For the next 200 years, the Qing emperors periodically made tours through the northeast to visit their homeland and pay homage to their ancestors, including Huang Taiji (皇太极) and his empress who are buried here at Zhaoling.         
The Zhaoling tomb, along with the Imperial Palace, are Shenyang’s most significant historical sites, and well worth a visit. All the buildings are beautiful and very well preserved; and the signs are interesting and informative with fairly good English translations.  The shrine is particularly beautiful and serene in the winter with freshly fallen snow.  Plan on spending half a day in Beiling Park, and 45-60 minutes in the Zhaoling shrine. 
 
 
 
 
  
Location:  On the far north side of the city. The entrance is located at the intersection of Beiling da jie (北陵大街) and Taishan lu (泰山路).  All taxi drivers will know "běi líng gōng yuán".
  
Useful Bus Routes:
213 from North Tower, South Tower, Middle Street, Wu Ai Market
227 from Wu Ai Market
                 Huigong Square
245 from South Tower, North Tower
231 from North Market
245 from North Tower
 
                                                                                              
 
 

ZhongShan square

Four Ancient Towers

The four towers, like most of Shenyang’s historical sites, were built around 1643 during the early Qing Dynasty. The towers symbolize the four Buddhist Heaven Kings, and originally marked the borders of the city. The four towers, aptly named “North Tower”, “Sou...
The four towers, like most of Shenyang’s historical sites, were built around 1643 during the early Qing Dynasty. The towers symbolize the four Buddhist Heaven Kings, and originally marked the borders of the city. The four towers, aptly named “North Tower”, “South Tower”, “East Tower”, and “West Tower”, do in fact appear quite similar to each other. The towers themselves are white, bulb-shaped structures, with gold decoration on the top. Each one is surrounded by a small Buddhist temple. Reportedly the North Tower is the best restored and maintained tower. 
 
The towers are pretty unspectacular, so don’t plan a whole day around visiting them. Entrance is free, however, so if you happen to be in the area of one of the towers, they are worth a look. The official operating hours are a bit unclear. The apparently sometimes close a bit early, so it’s best to go in the morning. 
 
Locations: (click on pictures for larger images)
 
North Tower 北塔 běi tǎ:
This tower is probably the most popular tower among visitors. It is located on Wang Hua Jie (望花街), which is the same road as Xiao Bei Guan Jie (小北关街). It’s 2 km northeast of the North Train Station, and 2-3 km southeast of Beiling Park. Coming from the city center, it’s on the way to the 9-18 Museum, so consider making a stop on the way there. 
  
Useful Bus Routes:
131 to/from Beiling Park East Gate, Shenyang University
213 to/from Beiling Park, Orthopedic Hospital, Middle Street, Imperial Palace, Wu Ai Market, South Tower
245 to/from Beiling Park, Orthopedic Hospital, South Tower
 
 
South Tower 南塔 nán tǎ:
South Tower is located in Shenhe District (沈河区) on Wencui Lu (文萃路) just behind Shoe City. 
Useful Bus Routes:
113 to/from Shenyang University
135 to/from Tiexi Square, Heping Square, San Hao Street, Exhibition Center
213 to/from Beiling Park, North Tower, Middle Street, Imperial Palace
239 to/from San Hao Street, Exhibition Center, Heping Square
282 to/from Xi Ta, Fangxing Square, Nanhu Park, San Hao Street, Exhibition Center, Sports Park
286 to/from Summer Palace
  
  
West Tower 西塔 xī tǎ:
The area surrounding the West Tower is known as “Korea Town”, and is home to a large population of Koreans, as well as many Korean bars, restaurants, massage parlors, etc. click for more info on "Korea Town". The tower is at the east end of Shifu Road, at the beginning of Xi Ta Korea street. 
 
 
Useful Bus Routes:
611 to/from South Station, Taiyuan Street, South Tower, Huigong Square
  
  
East Tower 东塔 dōng tǎ:
Located in Da Dong District (大东区) on Chang An Lu (长安路). 
Useful Bus Routes:
237 to/from Wu Ai Market, Ma Lu Wan, Taiyuan Street, South Station, Tiexi Square
 

North Market--Huang Temple

The North Market is comprised of two perpendicular pedestrian-only streets. The market includes an array of food vendors selling meat sticks (肉串, ròu chuàr), dumplings (饺子), baozi (包子), beer, and other goodies. The street is surrounded by several shops, including a jade marke...
The North Market is comprised of two perpendicular pedestrian-only streets. The market includes an array of food vendors selling meat sticks (肉串, ròu chuàr), dumplings (饺子), baozi (包子), beer, and other goodies. The street is surrounded by several shops, including a jade market, while other street merchants sell books, artwork, decorations, and miscellaneous trinkets. 
   
Adjacent to the market is the “True Victory” Temple (实胜寺庙 shí shèng sìmiào). This Buddhist temple was built in 1636 by the second Qing Dynasty emperor, Huang Taiji (皇太极), and is also known by the name “huáng sìmiào” (皇寺庙). The temple houses the cremated remains of a high-ranking Buddhist monk, and sometimes visitors are lucky enough to witness a performance of a traditional ceremonial Buddhist dance. Just outside the temple, there are large stone statues of all 12 Qing Dynasty emperors seated proudly upon their thrones. Entrance to the temple is 15 yuan.
 
 
     (Huang Temple from above)                                  (Emperor Nurhachi, first Qing emperor)

During the New Year’s Holiday and the October Holiday, the area holds a “Temple Fair” (庙会). Each year the area becomes crowded with people buying food, and tying red prayer-ribbons around the trees in the temple. There are also some special performances. The Fair starts about one week before Spring Festival, and lasts for 15 more days afterwards. 
    
Location: The market itself is Huang Si Lu (皇寺路), between San Jing Jie (三经街) and Nanjing Jie (南京街). From Government Square, go one block west on Shi Fu Lu (市府路) and you will see a large stone archway for the entrance.  From Xi Ta, go 1 km east on Shi Fu Lu. All taxi drivers will know "běi shìchǎng". 
 
 
      (Huang Temple from above)                                  (Statues of all Qing Dynasty Emperors)

(Photos by David de Jesus, 2007)    
 

 

Zhang Xue Liang's Mansion

Zhang Xue Liang is one of modern China’s most honored figures. He is something of a folk hero in Northeastern China. Born into a powerful warlord family at the e...
Zhang Xue Liang is one of modern China’s most honored figures. He is something of a folk hero in Northeastern China. Born into a powerful warlord family at the end of the Qing Dynasty, Zhang grew to become the leader of the Northeastern China government, army general, founder of Northeastern University, and commander of the resistance against Japan. This mansion turned museum was Zhang Xue Liang’s home and office, as well as the headquarters of the of city government before the Japanese invasion. 
 
 
 
  
History buffs should enjoy the way in which the museum provides an interesting look at the development of northeastern China. Unfortunately, most of the signs have little or no English, so if you can’t read any Chinese you might be a bit bored. 
 
 
 
          
The museum has three main parts: The old Zhang residence, built in ancient Chinese style, a newer mansion (1930’s) built mimicking ancient Roman design, and another house for one of Zhang Xue Liang’s father’s wives. The buildings themselves are interesting, but the main focus of the museum is on Zhang Xue Liang’s life and accomplishments. 
           
If you enjoy history and can read a bit of Chinese, the museum is worth a visit. Those on the tourist circuit should be able to visit Middle Street, the Imperial Palace, and Zhang’s Mansion all in one day. 
     
Location: The Mansion is near Middle Street (中街) just two blocks south of the Imperial Palace. The main entrance is on nán shùn chéng lù (南顺城路). Look for a large statue of Zhang Xue Liang in military uniform. The following buses will take you there: 134, 237, 250, 330, 133, 168. There is another entrance on the east side of the museum on cháo yáng jiē (朝阳街). The following buses stop there:292, 294, 290, 222, 213, 296, 287, 257, 118, 132, 276, 117, 228, 环. The bus stop for both entrances is called dà nán mén (大南门). If you’re asking for directions or taking a taxi, the mansion is commonly known as “dà shuài fǔ”(大帅府). 
 
Offical Website (in Chinese)
   
 
Photos by Jerry Wang, 2007

Shenyang Imperial Palace

Shenyang Palace Museum is also called the qing imperial palace in shenyang, China's only one of the most complete ancient palace complex, the palace has not only elegant power construction, in each showroom is in possession of a large number of rare and precious cultural relics during the Ming an...

Shenyang Palace Museum is also called the qing imperial palace in shenyang, China's only one of the most complete ancient palace complex, the palace has not only elegant power construction, in each showroom is in possession of a large number of rare and precious cultural relics during the Ming and qing dynasties. The imperial palace in shenyang is divided into three parts: the hall of great government and the tenth king pavilion built in the east for the nurhachi period; During the period of the qing dynasty, the imperial palace, including the gate of daqing, chongzheng hall, phoenix tower, etc. West is the period of the emperor qianlong period. The whole palace is majestic and magnificent, and it shows the grandeur of the royal family.

ShenYang Gu Gong